Firstly please note these are our personal opinions and observations based on a recent recce trip to Burma and from discussions with both, persons involved in the tourism industry there, and the ‘man in the street’/bar/restaurant/taxi, who we found only too willing to share their thoughts.
Now as with many other UK/US/Australian etc tour operators we have been, for the past 12 years, deliberately avoiding offering tours to Burma/Myanmar; in accordance with Aung San Suu Kyi’s advice, due to our close collaboration with Responsible Travel and out of personal principles. (Many European operators, totally ignoring any of these considerations, have been running trips to Burma for years.)
Our recent volte face, and decision to begin offering tours there in 2012 is due to the following reasons:
a change of advice from the ‘Lady’ and the National League for Democracy, who recently stated – “The NLD would welcome visitors who are keen to promote the welfare of the common people and the conservation of the environment and to acquire an insight into the cultural, political and social life of the country while enjoying a happy and fulfilling holiday in Burma”,
discussions with Responsible Travel (see their comments here),
and the belief that sanctions and boycotts are not only totally ineffective but indeed counter-productive. Very rich generals can still deal with China, Thailand, Singapore and other Asian countries which ignore sanctions and they still drive around in Mercedes with their I-phones whilst ordinary people have limited access to basics such as electricity, water, education and have reportedly almost the lowest level of health care on the planet. Even everyday aspects of modern life that are now increasingly taken for granted in cities of other poorer South East Asian nations like Cambodia or Laos, such as cell-phones, internet, sealed roads, pavements, street lighting are at pitiful levels even in the major cities, Yangon and Mandalay. Sanctions unfortunately clearly affect primarily the ordinary people and the removal of such sanctions will undoubtedly benefit these people.
Locals are only too willing to point out restaurants, hotels, transport companies etc with govt. connections and so have their own de fact boycott anyway and it is thus simple to comply. Local eateries, cafes and accommodation are often of high standards and other than a few obligatory entrance fees at main sites such as Bagan, Inle, etc a small proportion of tourist cash ought to find it’s way into the state coffers if the tour company concerned takes a few basic precautions. (Although many thanks to Neil Miller for reminding us that hotels, airlines etc do have to pay a govt tax!)
As we tried to point out to some of the rather desperate kids at Bagan hawking souvenirs and post-cards to the trickle of low season tourists – ‘this is what Angkor was like 15 years ago and now the parents own a/c restaurants and Honda Dreams!’
There will be a big increase in tourists and tourist dollars to this country and with empty govt. museums and crumbing hotels it may just encourage the powers that be to clean their act up in a way that sanctions have clearly failed to do?
Furthermore many of the most interesting and remoter parts of the country: Chin, Kachin eastern Shan, States and so-on are currently off-limits. Reminds us of Laos 20 years ago: – ‘no you can’t go there, to dangerous to travel in that area, special permit required to visit….etc’, whilst now you can travel anywhere, so optimists as we are, maybe the Myanmar govt. will see the benefits of reaching sensible solutions in those regions?
Anyway, good luck to them all – we left the country with, again, a great optimism for the people’s future, the confirmed belief that ‘things can only get better’ and that opening up tourism definitely has a very positive part to play in this in the coming years.
Cheers and we’ll get back to posting pretty pix again soon!
In my own personal opinion a very true and accurate description of the true situation in Burma, the positive impact that Responsible Tourism can bring to the country is there for all to see. Hopefully our optimism will be shared by many and the beautiful people who are most affected by the Government sanctions will start to see an improvement in the impoverished lives that they live today.
A shame that it took the NLD and Responsible Tourism this long to figure out that sanctions don’t work. They rarely do. When there are parties willing to break the embargo, sanctions often result in a high cost to the average person, as we saw in pre-US invasion Iraq.
Our position is that we shouldn’t let our view of a government prevent us from visiting a country. It does not mean we endorse or accept it. Rather, we wish to encourage exchanges on a personal level to develop greater mutual understanding, while trying to minimize monies going to the state.
Sure and the Iraq sanctions and oil trade fiasco were downright crimes against humanity. Guess the NLD felt pressure to pay lip service to Western sanctions?
I commend you on bringing tourists back to Burma. I agree that keeping people away is counterproductive. However, please keep in mind a few things as you reenter the country:
First, the it is not true that “practically zero tourist cash ought to find it’s way into the state coffers if the tour company concerned takes a few basic precautions.” The government takes money from airline and hotel taxes, visa fees, etc. While I agree that the lesser of two evils is to pay this money, please keep in mind that no matter how hard you try, money will be entering government coffers.
Secondly, while I respect tremendously the opinion of the “man on the street” in Burma, these opinions ca only be given so much weight. By definition, the people you spoke to are all involved to some extent in the tourist industry and therefore have a specific view. Also, like most citizens in our own countries, they do not fully grasp all the political implications of tourism. Moreover, the vast majority of Burmese do not see the direct benefits of tourism in the country, as they live in inaccessible, poor, agrarian communities.
Third, it is harder than one might think to avoid government own or sponsored businesses. Especially at the luxury end, many hotels, if not government-owned, are owned by those with close connections to the government, such as Tay Za and similar individuals. While it undoubtedly will cause additional time and expense, I encourage you to do your best to find truly independent operators, even if it sometimes means guests may have to take a step down in terms of luxury.
Finally, please do try to offer trips outside the “big four.” There is so much to see in some of the less traveled areas and those communities could really use the tourist dollars. Inle and Bagan, though beautiful, have already started to become a bit “touristy” and I think your guests may enjoy getting a bit off the beaten path.
Cheers Neil for your input. Take your points but not all your assumptions – I did mean man on the street and don’t see why by definition anyone I talked to is involved in the tourism industry?? Not sure market vendors, farmers, soldiers, off- duty policemen, monks, Palaung villagers, are necessarily in the tourism industry and I’ve always find taxi drivers a good source of info. Think they know better than us who is involved in or who owns what and they all certainly know who Tay Za is! Don’t deal with luxury end either, but as I say take your points -. cheers again, Mark
Txs again – amended post as a result – I had forgotten about their @#$#$ tax!